This Thanksgiving break was crazy! I went out to my roommate Kseans house on the north shore, and let me tell you that it is amazing! The house was beautiful and just a few hundred yards from a private beach. For Thanksgiving me and my friend Miles went to the private beach and climbed a coconut tree to pick coconuts. After we got them down my roommates little brother showed us how to husk them by putting a log in the sand and making a point on it, then he showed us how to take the husk off using the point on the log. My thanksgiving wasn’t what you call “traditional”.lol. After getting back from the beach, Ksean’s parents took us to this beautiful beachside restaurant where we had the chance to see the green flash on the sunset. On Friday, Ksean, Miles, and me went to Waimea for a surf competition and to see what the waves looked like for body surfing. When we got there the waves were about 14 to 16 foot faces! I don’t know how Ksean talked me into getting in there to body surf the waves but he did. I decided to go in on a small set, but when we went in it ended up being the biggest set of the day! I was alright at first, ducking under wave after wave; as a result, I exhausted myself trying to keep from drifting too far. I caught one enormous wave that was about 13 feet and rode it in, but when I went to come up for air the undertow caught me and drug me back under the water! I started to panic and swallowed some sea water, but I got myself under control and held my breath until I could get to the surface. I honestly thought I was going to drown and I started to think about some weird stuff, but that experience opened my eyes about not going out of your experience level. I wouldn’t do it again, even though Ksean said I handled myself better than anyone else he has taken in there for their first time.This could not have happened anywhere else except Hawaii , and it was definitely a Thanksgiving to remember!
